Versailles: L'État, c'est moi

I wasn't sure if I would have time to get to Versailles because it is a bit of a trip outside of Paris (though very doable in half a day, I was told and discovered). I was really excited to go, however, for a variety of reasons. The absolutist period, the culture of the period, and the music by Jean-Baptiste Lully, Marc-Antoine Charpentier, Jean-Philippe Rameau, which I studied in a course at Lawrence University titled, "Music and Power in the Reign of the Sun King." This course focused on how Louis XIV, who loved dance (as one of the best dancers of the time, himself), built Versailles with music, spectacle, and dance in mind. We discussed how music accompanied him where he went and how the gardens of Versailles, particularly, were the set for magical performances involving music. Like the Eiffel Tower, this is place that still left me in awe today, meaning I can't imagine how people viewed it when it was built. It's amazing it was completed (even if not in the current form) while Louis XIV was still alive.

My first stop was into the gardens. While I think it might have actually made sense to go through the palace so I didn't feel rushed and then into the gardens for what time I had, I wanted the light not to fade too much (it would have been light either way, I discovered, but the sun was definitely setting when I left).

At the outset the gardens are impressive. The extent of many palace gardens would be the fountain at the top level of the palace. Here, that was the location of a strange art exhibit in which a tree was being surrounded by the husk of another tree. Coming to the lip of the gardens and park, though, left me breathless. The combination of the somewhat misty haze and the fall colors was stunning. Being in the gardens in the summer is probably the best way to go with all the fountains functional (except the thronging crowds) but the fact that they were deserted and beautiful in a different way was great. I subsequently ventured into the gardens. I wanted to walk through as much of them as possible, which I did on the left side (facing from the palace) but not so much on the right side, especially because I visited the Trianon(s) and Marie-Antoinette's area over there.

After walking through the technical garden portion of the grounds, I ventured out into what is described as a park, the portion that contains the Grand Canal. Even though I knew as I looked out initially that the estate was vast, I didn't quite realize what a walk it was around the Canal. I would have done it anyway, but it was definitely a trek that didn't help my feet, which were in ruins after Paris+Versailles. It was worth it just to see that iconic vantage point from the end of the Grand Canal. There were also some pretty nice sights along the way, and it was interesting to stop at the two arms of the Grand Canal and see the different vantage points.

The gardens, with their fountains, were meant to impress with a sense of magic and mystery, while also allegorically representing the power of the king, connecting him with Apollo and other mythical figures with whom the "Sun King" was associated. The canals played host to regattas and also musical performances that incorporated the surroundings. While still impressive on their own and events do go on in them, the gardens don't have the same level of life and grandeur I'm sure they did during Louis' time. The place is also probably a lot nicer, though, since it was built on a swamp and we have better ability to deal with that these days than they did back then. That Apollo fountain, though, even when not running, was like an echo of Louis' golden glory.

As mentioned, I did visit the Trianon, famously home to Marie Antoinette as well as a variety of Napoleonic exponents, among others. In theory both the Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon are gorgeous buildings from the outside and offer a beautiful view of the estate. This view, however, did not really capture my attention while I was there. I saw a picture of them clearly taken in summer and I realized that it was a summery kind of place. The interior offered a lot of nice "journalistic" type photography recording the area, if not the artistic landscapes I prefer. Unfortunately, I was kind of rushed through this part of the journey because I was worried that I might not have enough time in the palace proper on account of the gardens taking so much longer than expected. In addition to one of the largest, most impressive wood-worked tables I have ever seen, for whatever reason, I stopped to take pictures of massive billiards tables contained in these buildings. They fascinated me...

 

Closest I got to the Versailles Opera House

I did make it into the actual Palace of Versailles and what a sight it was. Unfortunately certain areas (many, in fact, on account of how vast it is) are only open to visitors if they book a private tour with a guide. While I was fine seeing the gorgeous chapel (one such area) from the doorway, it was disappointing that the opera house (yes, the palace has its own opera house) was not accessible at all, except by tour. I hadn't known this and didn't really want a tour, so I couldn't go there. I did, however, get to see a great deal of the palace, including, of course, the all-famous Hall of Mirrors. The Hall of Mirrors is so emblematic of the reign of Louis XIV and the kind of court that he wanted to make, with all its intrigue and gaudiness but with him at the center. It was great to finally be there. I even tried to take a selfie in the mirrors but unfortunately they aren't the best sort of mirrors for selfie-taking, given their age.

The rest of the palace lived up to the Hall of Mirrors, if it lacked quite the same level of grandeur. It was fun to wander through the rooms, not unlike those of other palaces but clearly with the level of polish that Louis infused into everything he touched. I paid particular attention of course to the royal bed (which was apparently only for show) and the gilding of the rooms. It was fun to have the opportunity to see paintings and portraits of Louis, whether in his prime or representing him in his prime even once he no longer was. Some of them are quite impressive although, unfortunately, the 1701 Hyacinthe Rigaud is in the Getty, so I couldn't witness that in place. I did see another Hyacinthe Rigaud portrait of Louis XIV during my travels in France, though, which was at least a close approximation of the experience.

One thing that was also awesome was to see instruments in the palace. Because I took the course focusing on his use of music as a tool (or even weapon) at court. His ability (aided by those who actually did the creating) to use music and spectacle to impress is perhaps still unsurpassed. In addition to the organ in the chapel and the opera house which I couldn't see, I saw this smaller organ and two covered harpsichords (especially relevant to me since it backs so much of the vocal music I would sing from the time period). It was fun to just be in the place and imagine the music of the time by Lully or Rameau ringing through the palace. I hope one day to see the opera house there, but of course who knows whether that will happen.

As I left Versailles I looked back at it and took in its splendor one more time, imagining just how stunning it would have been when Louis moved in during his lifetime in the 17th century. With the setting sun on it, it gave it a special significance - the sun setting on the palace of the Sun King. Still so grandiose, such an emblem of power, but now of a bygone era when, "L'État, c'est moi" rang true and rippled across Europe in the age of absolutist monarchs.