Berlin

Berlin was a trip that I knew I had to make due to its historical significance, current importance, and relative proximity to Austria. I also had some personal reasons for going there. I have always wanted to see Jim Steinman's Tanz der Vampire. I had thought I would be going to see the show in Stuttgart or Oberhausen, which would have been less interesting otherwise, but fortunately those productions closed and a new one opened in Berlin. It was quite an opportunity to see the show, as it is almost exclusively performed in German-speaking European countries. It was a definite bonus to be able to visit somewhere as historic as Berlin simultaneously.

 

My first view upon arriving in Berlin at the Berlin Hauptbahnhof

Arriving in Berlin was exciting. I traveled a lot and, to some extent, Prague and Budapest (and Vienna itself) qualify on a similar level as Berlin, but really nowhere else was as monumental in terms of size as Berlin. The train station was in itself an indication of this fact.

I walked a lot in Berlin. After taking the subway once or twice a day, I would usually walk everywhere else, which was tiring, but in some ways a more authentic way to experience the city. My first day I spent almost exclusively walking between major monuments.

One of the most major monuments I visited was, of course, the Brandenburg Gate. Both days I was in Berlin were marked by steely grey skies. Nonetheless, seeing the Gate with a Christmas tree in front of it was quite impressive. It really showed off the Gate itself while also giving a kind of festive note to the experience. I had a fun time looking at the writing on the Gate, trying to read it, and learning some history.

Another major attraction, though not one that I got more than outside view of, was the Reichstag, which is both historical and modern. While the building is largely in an older style, the modern metal dome on top was designed by Norman Foster to have an ecologically friendly profile, provide a 360 degree view of Berlin, and also a view of the parliament below. I did not have the opportunity to go inside (prior registration is necessary) but viewing the exterior was still impressive!

The Berlin Victory Column was very impressive, sitting as it does at the intersection of four very major roads. I did not actually know at the time why it was built (commemorating Prussian victory in 19th century wars), but I enjoyed visiting, nonetheless. Around this monument (I traveled by foot and saw some other sights on the way there and back), are a large number of sculptures and monuments to famous figures. Additionally, I passed a beautiful manor with guards out front, and could not puzzle out what it might be. One thing along the way, though, was a monument with tanks and artillery commemorating Russian deaths in World War II. This was a reminder that, despite the beauty of the Berlin Gate, Reichstag, and Victory Column, the imposing monumentalism of these buildings should never overshadow the cost of what happens when such impressive nationalism runs away.

From the Russian Monument

Even more somber, perhaps, was my visit to the Holocaust Memorial, just out of the way away from the Berlin Gate. The placement was perfect; close to major monuments and the city center (a place of importance), but also just enough out of the way so as not to render it a vulgar "attraction." The design, also, blocks of varying height reminiscent of tombs, exemplifies how minimalism can be powerful in evoking chilling emotion.

Just as nationalism as an ideology should not run amok, my visit to Checkpoint Charlie and the remnants of the Berlin wall demonstrated the power of ideology overall to shape tyranny and inspire devision. It was also fascinating comparing my experiences to those of my father, who visited in the height of divided German history. The museum was interesting but a bit overwhelming. Still, seeing the pieces of the wall and looking into "East Berlin"was unforgettable.

The typical "European tourist activities" were scant here in Berlin. I did look at the Berliner Dom Cathedral and also the Fernsehturm (television tower), that are both tourist attractions, but went inside neither of these monuments (the Cathedral was closed the only time I got near it, the Fernsehturm out of the way a bit and not dissimilar to the CN Tower in Toronto). I did, however, stop by Alexander Platz just to see it and because, as a fan of the trilogy of Bourne Films, I wanted to see one of the most important locations in that series. I was always impressed by the multiple "on location" film sites, and Alexander Platz seemed very interesting. That said, I was there at night, so not a lot was going on. The Kaiser-Wilhelm Memorial Church, usually a great attraction because of its "almost crumbling" look after World War II and the story that it was left that way as a testament to the horrors of war, was boxed up inside a bunch of panels for preservation work that made it look almost like a modern office building. I went inside, but not being able to see the exterior was disappointing.

Finally, I did get to see Tanz der Vampire, and it was wonderful. I will conclude this with a copy of what I said about that production in my opera blog, The Passion of Opera:

Some diehards might object to me putting this piece of German musical theatre on a blog billed as being about opera. That said, while there is a lot of campiness in this piece, I really do feel like the German's have a greater feel for making authentic musical theatre that is closer to opera than to the musical theatre of the United States and Britain (though this also is, of course, amplified). In fact, Jim Steinman, though not German himself, strongly emphasizes the influence of Wagnerian music on his compositional style. I have long enjoyed Steinman's music, and appreciated the opportunity to see this musical because it is put on almost exclusively in Europe, the Broadway version having failed spectacularly. I will admit it is not a work of art in the same sense that most operas at least aspire to be. But the over the top sets, campy storyline, and wild acting style, contrasted against the dead seriousness of the characters believing in the ultimate impact of the story, is priceless. The music, as well, bombastic and melodramatic, is enjoyable. It was really just a fun, wild evening of musical theatre.